Every garment sold in the EU has a small label with two parts: care symbols (how to wash, dry, iron and clean it) and composition (what it is made of). Here you will find all the symbols with pictures, what each one means and how to use them in practice. If you are in a hurry, there is also a short version covering only the circles P, F and W.
How to read the label
The symbols follow the international standard ISO 3758 (the GINETEX system) and are the same throughout Europe. They are always arranged in this order:
Three rules apply to all groups:
- The symbol shows the maximum. 40 °C means “at most 40 °C”: cooler and gentler is always allowed.
- Lines underneath mean “more carefully”. One line: gentle programme; two lines: very gentle.
- A cross (X) means “no”. A crossed-out symbol forbids that treatment.
1. Washing: the tub
The number in the tub is the maximum water temperature in degrees Celsius. The lines underneath show how vigorously the drum may move.
In practice: washing machine programmes match the lines: “Cotton” has no line, “Synthetics” has one, “Wool” and “Delicates” have two. If the label has two lines but your washing machine has no wool programme, hand washing is safer.
2. Bleaching: the triangle
Many laundry detergents contain oxygen bleach. If the triangle is crossed out, check the detergent packaging: for coloured and delicate clothes, choose one without bleach.
3. Tumble drying: square with a circle
Cotton shrinks most in the first few washes and at high tumble dryer temperatures. If the garment needs to keep its size, dry it at a low temperature or naturally, even when tumble drying is allowed.
4. Natural drying: square with lines
These symbols tell you how to dry the garment without a tumble dryer. The lines inside the square show the position.
5. Ironing: the iron
The dots in the iron match the dots on the dial of most irons.
Tip: iron dark clothes and shiny fabric on the reverse side or through a cotton cloth, so that no shiny patches remain.
6. Professional cleaning: the circle
These symbols are mainly for the dry cleaner, but it is useful to know them before you leave a garment.
The symbols P, F and W don’t rule out washing at home. If the label has a tub with 30 °C and a circle with P, you can choose: at home or at a dry cleaner. If the tub is crossed out but there is a P or W, the garment can only be cleaned professionally.
Old and foreign symbols
On older clothes, or on clothes from the USA and Asia, you may also see these variants:
There is often English text next to the symbols as well. The most common instructions:
- Wash separately / Wash with like colours: wash on its own / with similar colours.
- Wash inside out: wash turned inside out.
- Do not wring: don’t wring it out.
- Reshape while damp: reshape while it is still damp.
- Dry clean only: dry cleaning only.
- Cool iron: iron at a low temperature.
- Remove promptly: take it out of the washing machine or tumble dryer straight away.
Composition: what the garment is made of
The second part of the label tells you which fibres the fabric is made of. The rules are the same throughout the EU (Regulation No 1007/2011):
- Percentages by weight, from largest to smallest. “70% cotton, 30% polyester” means cotton makes up 70% of the weight of the fabric.
- In the language of the country. In Bulgaria the composition must be in Bulgarian: “памук”, not only “cotton”.
- “100%”, “pure” and “all” may only be used if the garment is made of a single fibre. Up to 2% of incidental foreign fibres that cannot be avoided in production are allowed.
- “Other fibres”: fibres up to 5% (or up to 15% in total) that cannot easily be identified may be grouped together with their total percentage.
- Separate parts: the lining, the filling and the outer fabric often have their own composition: “Outer: 100% wool. Lining: 100% viscose.”
- Decorations up to 7% of the weight (embroidery, visible decorative threads) and metallic or antistatic fibres up to 2% may be left out of the percentages.
- “Contains non-textile parts of animal origin”: a mandatory statement if there is leather, fur or feathers as decoration (for example a leather label or a natural fur collar).
The most common fibres and how to care for them
Imported clothes sometimes have abbreviations. Here is what they mean and what to keep in mind:
| On the label | Abbreviation | What it is | Care |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | CO | Natural plant fibre | Withstands high temperatures; may shrink in the first wash and in the tumble dryer. |
| Linen | LI | Natural plant fibre | Strong, creases easily; iron while damp, at a high temperature. |
| Wool | WO | Natural animal fibre | Cold wash, two lines, dry flat; felts with heat and friction. |
| Cashmere, mohair, alpaca, angora | WS, WM, WP, WA | Fine animal hair | Like wool, but even more carefully; often hand wash or dry cleaning only. |
| Silk | SE | Natural animal fibre | Cold, no bleach, no direct sunlight; stains at a dry cleaner. |
| Viscose | CV | Man-made fibre from cellulose | Weak when wet; may shrink; gentle wash, no wringing. |
| Modal, lyocell | CMD, CLY | Man-made fibres from cellulose | Stronger than viscose; gentle wash. |
| Acetate | CA | Man-made fibre from cellulose | Low ironing temperature; dissolves in acetone (nail polish remover). |
| Polyester | PES | Synthetic fibre | Dries quickly, doesn’t crease much; iron at a medium temperature. |
| Polyamide (nylon) | PA | Synthetic fibre | Iron at a low temperature: high heat melts it and leaves shiny marks. |
| Acrylic | PAN | Synthetic fibre | Low temperature; high heat makes it lose its shape and stretch. |
| Elastane | EL | Synthetic elastic fibre | Even 2 to 5% makes the fabric stretchy; high temperatures and bleach damage it. |
The abbreviations come from international standards and must be explained in documents; on the label itself, the EU requires the full name.
When to take the garment to a dry cleaner
- When the tub is crossed out but there is a P, F or W.
- For coats, suits, jackets and lined dresses: different materials shrink differently and the shape can be lost when washed at home.
- For down jackets and duvets that don’t fit well in a home washing machine: see when a down jacket can go in the washing machine.
- For wedding and formal dresses with beads, lace or sequins: more on cleaning them.
- For grease, wine, make-up or ink stains on a delicate fabric. Don’t rub the stain and don’t heat it: that sets it. Tell the dry cleaner what the stain is and how old it is.
- For leather and suede: these symbols don’t cover them; ask the dry cleaner whether it works with leather items.
Before you leave the garment, show the label. If it is missing, say what fabric it is, if you know: this helps the dry cleaner choose the process. See also how to choose a dry cleaner and how much dry cleaning costs.
This article was prepared with The Clean Spot, a dry cleaner in Sofia with two locations, in Gotse Delchev and Mladost 3. You can find dry cleaners in your city in the list of dry cleaners. trqbvami.com has an editorial partnership with The Clean Spot; this does not affect the order in the directory.